Marine Exopolysaccharide (EPS) Renew is a skin builder secreted by a planktonic micro-organism, with refinement by marine biotechnology a pure and natural molecule is formed.
Marine EPS Renew is composed of galactose, and N-acetyl- glucosamine, which is involved in the synthesis of GlycosAminoGlycans (GAGs): the main water reservoir of skin.
For the skin to respond effectively three major functions of the skin needs to be rebooted, physical barrier function, Chemical barrier function and hydra memory function. EPS Renew works effectively on all three major skin functions.
1) Rebooting the Physical Barrier function: Disorganisation of the skin’s physical barrier leads to skin dehydration and skin roughness; it also causes a loss of skin radiance. An impaired skin barrier also facilitates contact with allergens and the development of unwanted bacterial flora.
Keratinocyte differentiation and epidermis renewal are the two main mechanisms affecting physical barrier quality.
1a) In-Vitro Test – using assessment of genes expression on human reconstituted epidermis treated with 1% EPS Renew applied topically.
Result: Increase in differentiation proteins which contributes to the formation of a higher quality physical barrier, and activation of stratum corneum renewal.
1b) Clinical Test – At 1% EPS Renew improves Skin Renewal
17 Volunteers aged 18-59 – - 17 volunteers aged between 18 and 59
- Application of a coloured cream containing 5% DHA, 1 day before start of treatment.
- From Day 0, lotion containing 1% EPS Renew applied twice a day for 2 weeks. Skin pigmentation by the DHA enables monitoring of cell renewal; pigmentation will be eliminated faster if cell renewal activated.
RESULT: Cell renewal rate is doubled in just 1 week.
By improving the skin’s natural renewal process, EPS Renew helps to eliminate dead cells on the skin’s surface and avoid the formation of a too thick and rough stratum corneum.
2) Rebooting the Chemical Barrier Function: The chemical barrier function deals with 2 defence module, the innate immunity which is made of proteins and antimicrobial peptides and inflammatory reaction.
2a) In-Vitro Test – EPS Renew at 1% reinforces innate immunity and reduces inflammation. In-Vitro test using assessment of genes expression by human reconstituted epidermis treated with 1% EPS Renew
Innate Immunity Test – EPS Renew stimulates four of the main antimicrobial peptides of innate immunity
Inflammatory Test – EPS Renew reduces five inflammatory mediators
2b) Clinical test - 1% EPS Renew reduces bacterial growth and skin reactivity
BACTERIAL GROWTH CLINICAL TEST
- 20 volunteers (aged 35 to 45) – lotion with 1% EPS Renew applied twice a day for 4 weeks.
- The effect on bacterial growth is assessed by porphyrin quantification: bacterial shedding (characteristic among other P.acnes). Easy to quantify porphyrin because it turns fluorescent under UV.
RESULT: Average reduction: -10% Maximum reduction: -54% .The reduction of porphyrin on the skin’s surface is evidence of inhibited growth of unwanted bacteria.
SKIN REACTIVITY CLINICAL TEST
- 30 volunteers (aged 30 +/- 2 years) – Application of a gel containing 1% EPS Renew, twice a day for 1 week.
- Evaluation of skin reactivity score. Use of stinging test, by application of lactic acid on the skin.
RESULT: 76% of volunteers observed a reduction in their skin’s reactivity after 1 week of treatment
3) Rebooting Hydra Memory – Environmental elements, chemical products and much more, all play a role in drying out of skin. While moisturising products may help hydrate the skin, not all skin types will recover their optimal hydration the same way. The ability to recover optimal hydration levels is called hydra memory.
This Hydra Memory involves a mechanism of pumping water into the dermis to rehydrate the upper layers: epidermis and stratum corneum. The skin’s Hydra Memory will be all the more effective if the physical and chemical barrier functions perform well. This memory can also be improved by reinforcing the skin’s ability to retain moisture.
3a) In-Vitro Test – EPS Renew at 0.02% stimulates synthesis of Hyaluronic acid. Use ofhuman dermis fibroblasts cultivated with or without EPS Renew. Dosage of the amount of hyaluronic acid synthesised, in culture medium.
Result:The increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis by fibroblasts promotes an increase in dermis hydration level, which represents the main water reservoir of the skin and is essential to its good hydration.
3b) Ex-Vivo Test – 1% EPS Renew improves autonomous skin rehydration.
Protocol: We tested the ability of a skin explant pre-treated with EPS Renew to autonomously regain (without added moisturiser) its optimal level of hydration after severely dehydrating stress (use of salt crystals). Hydration levels are measured using corneometry.
Result:The explants were subjected to severe dehydration: approx. -40% hydration. Only the explant treated with EPS Renew was able to regain its initial hydration levels: 96%, 1 hour after the dehydration process and 99% after 24 hours.
Skin renewal is about regaining soft, brighter skin with smoothed skin texture and less visible pores – skin that looks renewed and in good health.
CLINICAL TEST : showing overall perfecting action of EPS Renew at 1%
20 volunteers aged between 35 and 45
Lotion containing 1% Epidermist 4.0 applied twice a day for 28 days
Use of the VISIA tool to visualise skin texture smoothing effect and visibility of pores
ANALYSIS OF SKIN ROUGHNESS
Average reduction: -19%*** Maximum reduction: -56% ***p=0.001 Student test
Rebooting the physical barrier function, improvement of skin renewal and reactivation of water memory help to obtain smoother skin texture, less rough and softer skin.
ANALYSIS OF NUMBER OF VISIBLE PORES
Average reduction: -7% Maximum reduction: -41%
ANALYSIS OF TOTAL SURFACE OF VISIBLE PORES
Average reduction: -11% Maximum reduction: -58%
Rebooting the chemical barrier function, reduction of bacterial growth and improved skin renewal help to obtain a reduction in the number of pores and total surface area of pores visible.
With its multi-faceted approach, EPS Renew provides skin with an overall perfecting action:
After a single application:
Improved ability of skin to autonomously rehydrate: +17%
After 1 week’s use:
Improved cell renewal: +31%
Reduced skin reactivity: -37%
After 4 week’s use:
Reduced bacterial growth: -10% porphyrin
Smoother skin texture: -19% roughness
Less visible pores: -7% of pores and -11% of total surface area of pores visible
EPS Renew can be found in our Calibrate Balance Face Serum for Acne Prone, Acne Rosacea, Oily and Combination skin types.